Sustainable Humane Foie Gras

Foie gras is French for “fatty liver,” and in order to produce this so-called delicacy, ducks are force fed abnormally large quantities of food, causing their livers to become diseased and swell up to ten times the normal size. (Caro 2009) People will tell you they love it, hate it or have never tasted it. In France it's ubiquitous. In the United States there is controversy regarding the act of overfeeding ducks to enlarge their livers constitutes cruelty to animals, the unhealthy living conditions and the inhumane farming practices.

            The question is whether the act of overfeeding ducks to enlarge their livers constitutes cruelty to animals. The argument from the anti-foie gras camp is that the ducks are force-fed extreme amounts of food from a tube stuck down their throats, which causes their livers to grow to about a third of their total body weight, which in turn incapacitates the animals. Defenders of foie (liver) gras (fat), say that the ducks do not have a gag reflex and are inherently prone to overeating. (Bonisteel 2009) So, the feeding tube does not cause discomfort.  This may be true, however these individual caged ducks are forced-feed three to five times a day for a two week period which causes the ducks to become deathly ill, they struggle to walk and breathe, and vomit up undigested food. (The Humane Society) To me this is a clear example of cruelty and torture to an animal that is farmed for the singular purpose of becoming a food product.

            Investigations (PETA) reveal the unhealthy living conditions that many ducks endure. Many develop foot infections, kidney necrosis, spleen damage, bruised and broken bills, and tumor-like lumps in their throats. Investigations at Hudson Valley Foie Gras revealed that ducks were crammed into filthy, feces-ridden sheds and that others were isolated in wire cages that were so small that they could barely move. (PETA). Investigators also observed barrels full of dead ducks who had choked to death or whose organs had ruptured during the traumatic force-feeding process. The investigators (PETA) rescued 15 ducks, including two who were being eaten alive by rats because they could not move.

  

There is an alternative to the production method of foie gras and a farmer from Spain named Eduardo Sousa is on the forefront of the foie gras wars. Eduardo raises geese on an idyllic farm in Spain. He provides them with a plentiful spread of regional foods, including figs, nuts and herbs, knowing that the geese will instinctively gorge on food in preparation for the coming winter and long migration south. (Abend 2009) Sousa’s geese each year roam freely, eating their fill of acorns and olives, on a farm that replicates the wild as closely as possible.  Chef Dan Barber, owner of Blue Hill Restaurant in New York, is working to recreate Sousa’s sustainable model for producing truly free-range foie gras from non-force-fed geese here in the United States. This is a step to the end of farm factories and the education of the consumer to really understand how the food we buy is produced.

In today’s world we’re really disassociated from who’s growing our food, where it’s coming from and how it’s getting to us. I believe with more education and attention to how farm animals are treated and feed before their eventual slaughter will help to give a better understanding of why this is so important to keep a happy and healthy balance with nature.

The Friday Breakfast Buffet

Whiffs of syrup and butter, bacon, and sausages, a sugary bouquet of fresh cut melons filled my nose the closer I got to my purpose. I along with several other classmates was ready to eat, salivating in anticipation of the yummy goodness awaiting me at the notorious Friday Buffet. Greeted at the door by the instructing Chefs’ in a cheerful and enthusiastic manner, that carried over to the clean and smiley faced culinary students with such wholeheartedness and devotion, I couldn’t help but feel happy and welcomed as I approached the buffet line.

The space was arranged in a horseshoe design separated into three main areas that wrapped around a spectacular presentation of freshly sliced watermelons, thick and juicy pineapple wedges, and ripe fat strawberries. Dotted by plates of tiramisu, white and chocolate layered filled raspberry cakes, and my favorite; sabayon, a delicate light custard topped with bright blueberries, yum!

I was directed to left at the start of the buffet where heaps of pinwheel pastries’ topped with jam and miniature spiced crumb cake muffins were laid out in an eye pleasing style. Next to that, was the hot food held in chafing dishes. Bright and fluffy scrambled eggs top with perfectly melted cheddar cheese, the hash browned potatoes were a tad burnt on the top, but still fairly flavorsome. There was also crispy bacon and sausage that looked so scrumptious; I almost forgot I’m a vegetarian.  Thank goodness for the fruit filled crepes!

At the back of the room was the carving station, this one featuring ham. The server slicing out healthy portions was dutiful and courteous as was his classmate next to him, representing another beautifully presented display. This time smoked salmon, with miniature crouton-like bagels, and a variety of herbed cream cheese spreads. My favorite was the scallion reduction-caper cream cheese. The sweetness of the scallions combined with salty capers whipped in soft cream cheese, then topped with a thick slice of smoked salmon, a definite stand out for me. It was a perfect illustration of well balanced flavors and texture, except for the bagel or lack thereof. Yes, I would have preferred a softer and bigger bagel.

The last station was the busiest by far, the ever popular omelet station. Looking around the room while I waited my turn to order, I could see my fellow classmates enjoying themselves. Everyone seemed to be pleased with the selections offered and the overall pleasantness felt in the room.   It was my turn to order, an omelet seemed too much for me to eat, so I ordered an egg over medium. Somehow this translated into a plain, one egg omelet. The students working this station were reasonably competent, but lacking slightly in experience. When I finally got my egg, it was submerged in oil. Disappointed, I choose not to eat it and took a fresh pineapple, orange juice instead.

Over all my experience was a good one as it usually is when attending the Friday Buffet.  The food is always tasty and well presented by happy smiling individuals. I’ve been to the Friday Buffet a few times before, and at each visit there are noticeable improvements; whether it is the food selections, or the appearance and arrangement of the buffet, and this time was no different.  A good buffet is not always easy to discover, but when one does there is a feeling of tremendous delight and fulfillment in both the belly, and the soul of the buffeter.

Thanksgiving Side Dish Competition

Saturday Oct. 23, Its 8:AM and pouring rain, I'm so glad I packed my car last night! I'm feeling great,well rested and ready for the day! The drive starts out the same as always only not as much traffic given its a Saturday morning in the pouring rain, I've just made it across the bridge and I'm getting ready to exit 9th street when the radio stops playing in my car, and my lights go out and the windshield wipers are moving very slowing across the windshield before I can say "what the f*@# the little dials in the instruments on my dash are going around in circles and everything is going wacky! What the heck, am I about to be abducted! I'm afraid to stop at a red light or any of the 5 stops signs I have to go through before making it to my destination. I was lucky enough to make it to 16th & Kansas directly across the street from CCA. Phew... Just in time too, cause once I stopped the car it stopped completely, no more power! So I parked and grabbed my knife kit and went in. I decided not to worry about my car, not much I could do until later anyway -

There were 15 contestants and only 1 winner for the $1000! The competition, "The Best Thanksgiving Side Dish" We each had 2 hours to gather our ingredient, mise en place, prepare, cook, and plate. Start time 10:15am - finished and plated at 12:15pm. My dish - "Caramelized Onion Chestnut Squash Casserole" Everything went rather smoothly, all my ingredients was available except the veggie stock, so I had to quickly make a veggie stock in order to complete my Sauce Veloute. So I quickly put 2 cups of water on and diced 1/2 onion a few garlic gloves, celery and carrots and threw them in the heated water, then I put together a bouquet garni and added that to the veggie stock. It took about 15 minutes for the stock to get tot he right color and flavor, then in the walk in it went to cool down enough so I could added it to the warm roux with out ruining the sauce. While I was getting the veggie stock going I had already peeled and diced 3 large onions as well as the butternut squash and it roasting in the oven with a little nutmeg, salt & pepper. The chestnuts were also roasting in the oven - everything at 375 F  and on the stove I was caramelizing a pound of onions in a very large and very heavy saute pan. The atmosphere was calm and easy, no stress at all from anyone that I could tell......we all worked efficiently and quietly. Time was up - all the 15 dishes were plated and ready for tasting and judging! The winner was Sweet potato rosettes with cranberry compote. And it was very tasty and lovely looking dish.

I got back to my car at 2:pm and still raining...hard, really hard...it never stopped all day.....I'm getting towed to garage on Howard & 12th, and 3 hours later I'm back on the road with a new alternator. So much for groceries for the next week and half!

Week 3!!!!!!

Good start going into the 3rd week.  So far the commute has been smooth and even and the weather continues to be beautiful! Go Giants! My classes are moving along a pretty steady clip, we have 2 quizzes a week and I will have 6 finals by the end of the first 6 weeks as well as 4 written essays from fiction or nonfiction book on or having to do with cooking or cookery or gastronomy. I’m currently reading “Heat” by Bill Buford  (which is what I should be doing instead of writing on this blog right now – the essay is due Thursday!) There is so much more than just cooking to cooking! I have jumped in with great zeal and have signed up for just about every club offered!  The Iron Toques, Ice Sculpture, Molecular Gastronomy, and the Competition Club are among my favorites so far!  I submitted a “Thanksgiving Side Dish Recipe” for a $1000 scholarship. The competition is Oct. 23^rd, I don’t know when the finalist will be selected; there will at least be 20 dishes chosen. My dish is  Caramelized Onion Butternut Roast with Chestnuts - yum! It's one of my most favorite from the Veganomicon cookbook, which by the way is so super fabulous if you don't have this cookbook you must get it right away! I am also in the Poetry Club and 2  poems I submitted have been selected for this Thursday poetry reading. Oh boy - I think I may have to stand up in front of people and read them, should be easy! I'm looking forward to the Ice Sculpture Club, we get to use chain saws! Wow, isn't that the best! This is the only school in the country that actually gives sharp knifes and other dangers cutting implements to their students and then turns them loose in the city with a bag of weapons. Cool! The Starbucks and Wholefoods surrounding the CCA building at 8:25am on 17th & Rhode Island   is dotted with men and women in black, white & bleu. I get the feeling this is what military school is like; well, as long as no one tries dropping a bomb on my street I guess it's all good!

Most of last week was spent on stocks/fumets’ and this week we are making the 5 mother sauces that every sauce is created from.  I am making a vegan béchamel sauce tonight to bring to class tomorrow and see if Chef Patricio can tell that it doesn’t not have real milk or real butter.  I was happy to know that I have been making a roux and the béchamel the traditional French way – I’m sure my knowledge of this comes from working at Mr. Stox in Anaheim, 20 years ago.  I have to say I would credit a great deal of my know how of sauces and stocks to the culinary team lead by Chef Scott Raczek who still is the chef there. I goggled them the other day; they need a better web site. San Francisco is really an amazing city of culinary explosion! What we used to refer to as a “Roach Coach” in SF is just about some of the best gourmet fast food you will ever have in your life!  And then there's the Gourmet Ghetto in Berkeley! Outstanding restaurants! This truly is a foody's paradise.

I'm........Looking for a job again! AHH…Crap! Don’t love it! Ristorante Allegro is not as busy as it could be, so they are cutting back on everyone’s shifts and because I’m the newest hire, I was put on an “On Call” status! Basically, that means look for other employment! Good news is that I have already in the few weeks of working there made a couple good contacts. So there it is, something will come around for me.  I do have an interview tomorrow in Berkeley and I’m still getting some little jewelry orders coming in – it’s all by the seat of pants that I live in this city. It’s so expensive to be here that I often think about moving back to LA. and I still feel the sting of a broken heart and deep disappointment but forward is the only plan I have right now! I know it sounds so vague, what are your plans…to go forward!

Oy vey….what ya gonna do!

I'll post a picture of my vegan bechamel sauce later tonight or soon after that! 

Have a good night and day as they come to you! xo t 

Foundations 1

My first week of culinary school and a new job; Yes, for those of you that haven’t already heard, I have finally after 17 months of unemployment now join the very happy and grateful ranks of the working! I am the bartender for Ristorante Allegro on Gough Street in Hayes Valley, a very hip & trendy neighborhood in San Francisco near the Civic Center, City Hall, the Opera House & Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall. Hayes Valley is a fabulous neighborhood with delightful boutiques tucked in-between cafes, bistros’s and fine dine establishment’s all side by side block after block all the way to the Tenderloin. I am up at the crack of dawn, which for some of you is no big deal – but for me, a creature of the theatre for the past 25 years, (unless there’s an earth quake) I am happily asleep until way past 10 in the AM! My day now starts at 6:30 am, I am out the door and on my way through the East Bay maze by 7:30 in hopes to reach the toll before crossing the Bay Bridge by 7:45 in order to make it to 15^th and Vermont Street in Portero Hill by 8:20 just to get all day free parking! My first class Foundations 1 starts at 9:am. I am dressed in black & white checked pants, Chef Jacket, neckerchief, skull cap and steel toed black shoes along with 30 other students as we line up outside the classroom awaiting our check in with Chef Patricio. Once we are all in our places Chef Patricio asks if we all had a good night sleep and are ready for our day -  in unison a lively “YES CHEF” fills the room. It’s much like the army, only with better food. Foundations 1 is all about Knife skills, cuts, weights & measures, recipe conversions and culinary terms. I’m like a fish to water in this environment and for the first time in a very long time, I feel truly happy and a live with tremendous passion!